Issue #3: On the Circularity CircKit | January 2025
2025 is officially underway. Will sustainability remain a priority, or will economic turbulence and political back-pedalling send progress straight to landfill?
Last month’s biggest stories reflect the contradictions at play—while some brands double down on circularity and accountability, others continue to evade scrutiny, exploit loopholes, or outright sabotage climate efforts. From high-profile exits and game-changing partnerships to devastating losses and corporate greenwashing, here’s where fashion’s key players landed on the circularity circkit this month:
Haute Couture / Straight To Landfill
High-profile stories setting back global sustainability efforts
Sustainability is predicted to fall on the priority list as brands weather the luxury slowdown. While Q4 2024 results were stronger than expected, a cooling luxury market could push sustainability initiatives down the agenda as brands focus on short-term profitability. We hope that continued consumer pressure and incoming regulations will keep sustainability in focus despite economic and political headwinds. (Source: Business of Fashion)
Trump withdraws the U.S. from the Paris Agreement—again: This represents a devastating blow to global climate action; however, major legislations in the EU, including Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR) alongside CSRD reporting requirements for large companies, will continue to hold brands accountable. The question remains: will U.S.-based fashion giants keep up their commitments, or retreat into unchecked environmental negligence? (Source: Vogue Business)
Haute Couture / Circulate This
High-profile stories that are progressing global sustainability efforts
Stella McCartney leaving LVMH: While reclaiming full ownership of her namesake label, McCartney’s continued advisory role at the luxury conglomerate means sustaining an integral influence over industry-wide sustainability efforts. (Source: Business of Fashion)
Glenn Martens succeeds John Galliano as creative director of Maison Margiela - under the Belgian designer’s tenure at Diesel, Martens championed sustainable innovation, transforming their denim production processes and introducing circular initiatives such as the Diesel Loves partnership with Levi’s and their denim recovery program, Diesel Rehab Denim. With his appointment at Margiela, we hope to see Martens continue to embrace upcycling, deadstock, and bio-based materials on a whole new level in the couture world! (Source: OTB Press)
London Fashion Week becomes the first major fashion week to adopt Copenhagen’s minimum sustainability requirements This marks a significant step towards holding designers accountable for their impact; from their use of materials and garment longevity to working conditions and end-of-life planning. (Source: Harper’s Bazaar)
Sustainable fashion fave Ganni signs a 4-year deal with polyester textile recycler Ambercycle. The Danish brand’s four-year deal with the polyester recycler signals confidence in textile-to-textile circularity at scale. Could this be the start of major brands fully integrating recycled synthetics into their supply chains? Watch this space. (Source: Vogue Business)
Naute Couture / Straight To Landfill
Global sustainability setbacks happening on the high street
Shein refuses to answer questions about cotton sourcing in China. With the ultra-fast fashion giant eyeing a London IPO, its total lack of transparency raises serious concerns. Could regulatory scrutiny force Shein into accountability, or will it continue to skirt around ethical obligations? (Source: BBC)
Kantamanto Market fire devastates local communities and threatens to disrupt the global secondhand market. The blaze, which destroyed one of the world’s largest secondhand clothing hubs, underscores the urgent need for the industry to rethink its waste systems with greater support for the Global South, who are responsible for managing much of the waste produced by the West. Without serious investment in waste management and fairer global trade practices, the Global South will continue to bear the brunt of fashion’s overproduction crisis. (Source: The Or Foundation)
New report links ‘ethical cotton’ production in India to child forced labour. This revelation challenges the credibility of certifications that claim to ensure ethical labour practices. Without radical supply chain transparency and stricter accountability measures, ‘sustainable’ cotton risks being nothing more than another greenwashing ploy. (Source: Business of Fashion)
Naute Couture / Circulate This
Global sustainability wins happening on the high street
Nobody’s Child teams up with end-of-life partner Reskinned to launch takeback scheme. The brand’s new partnership aims to extend the life of old garments through resale and responsible recycling. With customers incentivised by the opportunity to receive up to £30 worth of discounts on new items, this showcases a highly effective way to encourage customer engagement with circular initiatives. (Source: Nobody’s Child)
Ebay UK returns to sponsor Love Island: All Stars Season 2. The resale platform’s ongoing partnership with one of the UK’s most-watched reality shows continues to push secondhand fashion into the mainstream; positioning pre-loved as a desirable alternative to fast fashion. (Source: Retail Gazette)